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Entry Door Help & Information

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Active: In paired or double doors, the hinged door leaf that is primarily operated.

Affidavit Label: For fire-rated doors, a label on a door product taht the manufacturer (not an independent laboratory) states that the door meets a type or types of test criteria.

Air Infiltration: Air passing through a door system when the door is under pressure, usually from wind.

Annealed Glass:  Regular glass which has not been heat strengthened or tempered.

Architectural Style: The characteristic form and detail of buildings from a particular historical period or school of architecture. Some examples include Colonial, Contemporary, Craftsman, Old World, Victorian, or Cottage.

Astragal: The post-type fitting on the latch-side edge of one of a set of paired or double doors, it covers the margin between doors when they are closed, and which houses or contains weather-stripping. Prevents the doors from swinging or sliding compeletely through the opening and aids in preventing air infiltration.

ASTM: Amercian Society for Testing and Materials. ( http://www.astm.org/index.html ) A voluntary organization concerned with development of consensus standards, testing procedures and specifications.

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Backset: For locating a machined  hole, recess or mortise, the distance from an edge or surface to the center or edge of the recess, hole, or mortise.

Ball-bearing Hinge:  A heavier-duty hinge than standard hinges, with bearings supporting the pivots. Ball-Bearing Hinges are usually used for heavy doors that will be in commercial or industrial use.

Balloon Frame: Wood frame construction that carries the stud to the full height of the exterior wall.

Barbed: An adjetive that describes the feature of a part which inserts into a slot, and which has surface features that enable it to stay firmly inserted into the slot.

Base Block: Also known as a Plinth Block.  A square block at the base of a pilaster of a block of wood, placed at the bottom of side door casing to terminate the casing as well as the base. Since the door casings and bases are molded, plinth blocks offer a sturdier member and a better appearance. They are thicker and wider than the abutting members. Also referred to as Foot blocks, pilaster base.

Boot:  A term used for the rubber part at the bottom or top end of an astragal, which beds the astragal end and seals between the end and the door frame or sill.

Boss, Screw Boss: A feature or a part which enables the fastening of a screw into the feature, thereby allowing assembly of the part with another. Screw bosses are common features of molded plastic lite frames and extruded aluminum door sills.

Box-Framed: In door and sidelite assemblies, a term used to differentiate door and sidelite units which are first framed as separate units, with heads and sills separate and the width of the door or sidelite panels. Box-framed doors are joined to box-framed sidelites.

 Brad: A small nail with a small head, usually used to fasten small trim and moldings.

Brickmould: A molding used to trim the outside edge of a door frame. Brickmould is most often applied to prehung units.

Buck: The term usually used in masonry construction to describe a door frame or a subframe in a masonry opening, around which a steel door frame wraps and is fastened.

Butt: A type of hinge used to assemble doors.

Butyl: An organic compound used in the door business as a sealant. It is naturally black, and is heated and  pumped through nozzles or pumped cold.

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Caming: Formed metal stripping, usually made of brass or zinc plated steel, used between cut-glass pieces to assemble teh pieces into a decorative glass panel. Caming is soldered at joints to bond the glass assembly together.

Carpet Shim: A spacer block used under a door sill to raise the sill an appropriate amount if carpet is used, so the door panel clears the carpet when opened.

Casing: A horizontal or vertical molding, which accents or trims edges of doors and windows to the surrounding walls. Casing also covers or accents intermediate posts.

Caulking: A sealant which is usually extruded or troweled into a recess or joint, to seal against air and water leakage through the joint.

Clad: Provided with a facing or jacket which works as a protection against weather, and provides a finished appearance. Cladding may be painted metal, plastic or a heavy coating applied by the manufacturer.

Clear Jambs:  Natural wood door frames, without paint or primer applied, and which appears to be of fulll-length pieces of stock without joints or knots.

Closed-Cell Foam: A sponge like material usually used in gaskets and weather-stripping, which compresses into joints but absorbs little water.

Closer Block: An inside reinforcement that is usually placed across the top edge of a door to enable firm fastening of self-closing hardware.

 Condensation: Also known as 'sweating' and is a natural occurrence in the home. It is caused by excessive humidity, or invisible water vapor that is present in the air.  When this water vapor comes in contact with a surface which is at a cooler temperature it turns to visible droplets of moisture.  Often seen on glass surfaces.

Continuous Sill: A sill used for a type of door and sidelite unit in which the unit has full width top and bottom frame parts and an internal post or posts separating sidelites from the door panel.

Core: The center section or part of a door or door part.

Corner Plug, Corner Seal Pad: A small part, usually made of resilient material, used to seal water which gets beyond the bottom ends of weather-stripping in doors, from getting between the door edge and the jambs, adjacent to the bottom gasket.

Cove Molding: A small molded wood lineal piece, usually formed with a scooped face, used to trim and fasten a panel of some type into a frame.

Crossbore:  A large through-hole, near the edge of a door panel, usually 2-1/8 inch in diameter, which houses a cylinder lockset or deadbolt latch.

Cylinder Lock, Cylindrical Lock:  Lock hardware which mounts into a door that has been prepared with a bored hole or holes through the face and into the edge.

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Dado: A machined or sawn groove, across the width of a part.

Deadbolt: A latch used to secure a door closed, the latch being driven from the door into a receiver in the jamb or frame.

Deflection:  The distance a door has moved away from its closed and latched position, usually measured at the top unsupported latch-side corner. Deflection may be caused by wind pressure or heat. Deflection is temporary and the door returns to position when the force is removed.

Desiccant: Moisture absorbing material used inside the spacer in an insulated glass assembly, so as to control moisture levels and prevent moisture from frosting or condensing on the inside glass surfaces of the insulated unit.

Doorglass: An assembly of frame and glass panel, which when fitted to a door in a formed or cut-out hole, creates a door with a glass opening.

Doorlite:  An assembly of frame and glass panel, which when fitted to a door in a formed or cut-out  hole, creates a door with a glass opening.

Double-Glazed: Outfitted with two panes of glass with a sealed airspace between them.

Drip Strip:  In exterior doors, a fitting used across the outside face of the door adjacent to the bottom edge, to divert cascading rain away from the door bottom edge and away from the door/sill joint.

Drywall Opening:  A rectangular opening in a wall, usually an interior wall, prepared to the size necessary to receive a  prehung assembly.

DSB Glass: A term no longer used in the glass business, which meant Double Strength-B quality.

Dummy Cylinder: A lock without a latch, typically used for the passive door panel of a double door unit, so that the hardware appears equal to that used on the active panel.

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Edge Bore: The hole bored through the edge of a door to allow the latch to pass through and into the strike.

Electric Strike: A mechanism which allows a switch to open the latch of a door.

End Seal Pad: A closed-cell foam piece, about 1/16" thick, in the shape of a sill profile, fastened between the sill and the jamb to seal the joint.

Escutcheon: A stamped decorative plate, usually circular to trim the shaft of a door knob or deadbolt latch, to trim the opening where the shaft or latch adjoins the face of a door.

Etched Glass: Glass used for doorlites on which a decorative pattern is engraved by means of chemical action or mechanical sand-blasting.

Extension Unit:  A frame fixed door panel, with a full-sized lite of glass, field-installed or shop-installed adjacent to a two-panel patio door, to make the door unit into a three-panel door.

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Faceplate: The plated or solid metal trim piece, usually about 2-1/4 inches, housed flush into the edge of a door, through which projects the latch of a passage lock or deadbolt.

Finger Joint: A way of joining short sections of board stock together, end to end to make longer stock. Door and frame parts are often made using finger-jointed pine stock.

Fire Door: A door of a construction type which has been tested to contain the spread of fire from one room or occupancy area to another. Fire doors are listed and labeled to show their ratings in terms of time, i.e., 20-minute, 90-minute, etc.

Flush Glazed: A type  of glazed door which has its glass perimeter moldings flush with or set down from the face of the surrounding door.

Foam: Rigid or flexible plastic, light in weight and cellular in structure, used in door construction. Rigid foam is used as the insulating and binding core for doors. Flexible foam is sometimes used as gasket.

Foot Bolt:  A steel pin housed in a door bottom edge or astragal, with a latch mechanism, which can be driven down to project into a receiver socket or hole in the floor or threshold, to better secure the door when it is closed.

Frame: In door assemblies, the perimeter members at the top and sides, to which the door is hinged and latched See Jamb.

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Gain: A notch across the end of a board or wood part.

Galvanized: An adjective used to describe steel which has been zinc-coated. Galvanized steel is resistant to corrosion.

Gasket: A strip of flexible material which in an assembly of parts, prevents air and water from penetrating or passing through joints between parts.

Glazing: The elastic material used to seal glass to a surrounding frame.

Grille: For doors with glass lites or inserts, a removable face-mounted assembly of thin wood or plastic pieces, which when in place, gives the lite or insert a patterned multi-pane look.

Grooved Glass:  Glass which has been decorated with abrasively-routed recesses. Grooving can give a single piece of glass a multi-paned look.

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Handing: A term which describes or determines the direction or swing of a door when opening.

Head Bolt: A steel pin housed in a door top edge or astragal. See Foot bolt.

Head, Head Jamb: The horizontal top frame member of a door assembly.

Hinge: An assembly of metal plates and a cylindrical metal pin, which when fastened to a door edge and to a door frame, allow the door to swing or rotate in its frame.

Hinge Style: The full-length vertical edge of a door, at the side or edge of the door which fastens to its frame with hinges.

Horned Sill:  A sill which has been coped or cut in such a way at its ends, so that the sill projects across the outside face of the bottoms of door jambs, allowing the bottom ends of the brickmold pieces to butt and join to the top of the sill.

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IG Unit: Abbreviation for insulated glass unit.

Inactive: A term for a door panel fixed in its frame. Inactive door panels are not hinged and are not operable.

Insulated Glass, Insulating Glass: A glass assembly of multiple full-lite pieces, separated by a perimeter spacer and sealed as a unit. Insulated glass in residential doors is usually made with two thicknesses of 1/8 inch glass, separated by an airspace of up to 3/4 inch thick.

Inswing: A term used to describe an exterior entry door; when the hinged door panel is opened the panel swings into the building.

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Jamb: A vertical perimeter frame part or a door system.

Jamb Jack: A fastener device for fixing a door frame to a wall structure, which allows the space or margin between the frame and the structure opening to be varied by turning the fastener screw.

Jamb Stop: In exterior door frames, the molded-in rebate surface of a frame member against which the door panels close and seal.

J-channel: Installed or built in to the side of the door, this channel is designed to accommodate the ends of siding pieces to provide a finished appearance.

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Kerf: A thin slot cut into a part with a molder or saw blade, weather-stripping is inserted into kerfs cut into door jambs.

King Stud: In a wood-framed rough opening, the stud which runs full height from the floor plate to ceiling plate, against which trimmer stud attaches.

Knuckle: The feature of a hinge where the hinge leaf is cut for two or three projections which wrap and form a barrel or socket for the hinge pin.

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Laminate: A thin face of wood or plastic, adhesively bonded to a core or substrate, which makes up teh decorative, wear or weatherable surface of the part.

Latch: A moveable, usually spring-loaded pin or bolt, which is part of a lock mechanism, and engages a socket or clip on a door jamb, retaining the door closed.

Leaf:  A term which can apply to a door or hinge and which defines a part of the assembly which can swing on a pivot. Butt hinges have two leaves.

Lite: An assembly of glass and a surrounding frame, which is assembled to a door, or is integrally built into the door at the factory.

Lock Block: A rectangular block of wood or other solid material, placed inside a door assembly at the lock side edge, which reinforces the assembly when the lock hardware is installed.

Lock Bore:  For cylindrical locksets, the large through hole, usually 2-1/8 inches in diameter, bored near the door panels lock edge, into which the lock mechanism is placed and installed.

Lock Style: In insulated door assemblies, the full-length part, usually wood, which makes up the lock edge of the door panel. In wood stile and rail doors, the full length wood piece, 4 to 6 inches wide, at the lock edge of the door.

Low-E Glass:  Glass which has been factor coated with a thin layer of material, nearly clear, which acts to absorb and reflect heat and light energy. 

LVL:  Abbreviation for laminated veneer lumber. LVL is a manufactured wood product, in which veneer layers are adhesively bonded into a layup of multiple thicknesses. LVL is made to specified strengths and is used for structural purposes.

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Miter: An angled cut across the end of a lineal part, usually done to join with a similarly cut part at a corner.

Mortise: A recess cut into the surface or edger of a part, usually for the purpose of housing hardware such as hinges and lock  parts.

Mortise-Type Lock: A lockset which usually has a rectangular shaped mechanism, which is housed into a deep recess cut into the edge of a door.

Mull: A short term for mullion. Used occasionally as a verb to describe the joining of two door units together, or the joining of a door to a sidelite unit.

Mulled: An adjective describing a door and sidelite unit which has been made up by edge-joining two framed units together.

Mullion:  A post or divider which runs from sill to frame top in a multi-panel door, door, or door and sidelite assembly. In stile and rail doors, the vertical wood parts which separate panels.

Multiple Extension Unit: In patio door assemblies, a fixed door panel in a separate frame, edge-joined to a patio door unit to add another glass panel to the installation.

Muntins:  In glazed lite assemblies, thin vertical and horizontal divider bars, which give the lite a multi-paned look. Muntins may be part of the lite frames, and on the outside surface of the glass or assembled between glass in insulated glass units.

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Nailing Fin: A feature of some windows and patio doors which permits installation and fastening to a rough opening by nails or screws driven through the fin at the top and side edges of the unit, into the surrounding frame of the opening.

NFRC: Initial for National Fenestration Ratings Council, an industry association which sets standards for testing, rating, and labeling doors and windows with heat transmission and energy information.

Night Latch:  lever or knob-actuated bolt for fastening a door more securely at night.

Nosing: An edge piece, usually molded with a rounded face or corner, which runs the length of an assembly. Oak adjustable sills have a nosing part along the floor line at the inside edges.

NRP Hinge: An abbreviation for a hinge with a non-removable pivot pin. NRP hinges are used when exterior doors swing out, as a security feature. The fixed pins make it impossible to remove a door by driving out pivot pins.

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Open-Cell Foam: A foam material which has passageways between cells. Open-Cell foam will absorb and retian water, because water will penetrate deeply inside it.

Outswing: An exterior door assembly in which the door panel swings outside the building.

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Panel: A wood surface within a surrounding frame. All panels have structural frames, the interslices of which are filled with sheets or fields called panels. The frame is necessary for adequate strength onl with the panels occupying considerable more area than the frame. The panel may be raised above or recessed below teh surrounding frame and set off from it by moulding or other decorative treatments. Panel also refers to a sheet of plywood or thin plywood.

Plank Door: A door constructed from planks.

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Quarter Sliced: Veneers cut from a quarter log or flitch.

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R-Value A number which describes in relative terms, the ability of a material or assembly to resist the flow or transmittance of heat. Assemblies or materials with high R-values are better insulators than those with lower R-values.

Rabbet, Rebate: A rectangular recess cut or formed along the long edge of a part, usually a wood part.

Rail:  In insulated door panels, the part, made of wood or composite material, which runs inside the assembly, across the top and bottom ends, and makes up the top or bottom edge. In stile and rail doors, horizontal pieces at top and bottom edges, and at intermediate points, which connect and frame the stiles.

Ramp: In a sill or threshold, the horizontal face which is sloped.

Reveal: The offset or margin between edges of parts.

Riser:  A term that describes the part of an adjustable sill which can be moved up or down by turning adjusting screws.

Riveted-Pin Hinge: See NRP Hinge

Rough Opening:  A structurally-framed opening in a wall which receives a door unit or window.

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Saddle: In adjustable sills, another term for riser. Also a shop-applied label applied around the corner or edger of a door, which provides identification and installation instructions.

Safety Glass: Glass that, when broken, shatters into small pieces without sharp edges.

Score:  A line (as a scratch or incision) made with or as if with a sharp instrument.

Screen Track: A feature of a door sill or frame head which provides a housing and runner for rollers, to allow a screen panel to slide from side to side in the door.

Scribe: A mark for a cut that has been made by using a template or pattern.

Sealant:  Elastic material pumped or troweled into a joint to prevent water penetration.

Self-Cased: A steel frame for which the edge detail finishes to the surrounding wall, without the need for additional spplied casing molding.

Self-Locating Hinge:  A hinge with indexing or locating tabs to aid in exact placement against a door edge.

Shim:  A thin piece of material used between parts of an assembly, to change and fix the distance between parts, when parts are fastened.

Sidelite: A fixed narrow panel, installed next to a door panel for decorative purposes. Sidelites almost always contain glass lites.

Sill Saddle:  See Riser

Slide Bolt:  The part of an astragal assembly which, by means of moving latches at tops and bottoms of astragals, places bolts into frame heads and sills, for fixing passive door panels closed.

Smoke & Draft Door: Where building codes define use, a fire door which has been rated for 20-minutes fire resistance, and which does not need test certification as having passed the hose stream portion of the fire test.

Spacer, Glass Spacer: A lineal part with rectangular cross section, running along the perimeter edges, between the glass pieces of an insulating glass unit.

STC: Abbreviation for Sound Transmission Coefficient. A value which describes in relative terms the ability of a door to dampen the passage of noise. Doors with higher STC values permit less noise to pass through.

Stile: In insulated door panels, the full-length parts, usually wood, which make up the long edges. In stile and rail doors, the vertical edge parts.

Strike: A metal part with a hole or recess for receiving a door latch, also with a curved or ramped face so a spring-loaded latch contacts when closing. Strikes are fit into mortises in door jambs or mullions, and screw-fastened.

Style: A number or name defining a door design or configuration.

Subfloor: The concrete or wood floor surface lying under the finished floor. Prehung door assemblies are installed atop the subfloor.

Substrate: The base or core material in an assembly of parts. In sills, the full length wood or composite part of the sill, visible only from the bottom side, or ends.

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Tempered Glass: Glass sheet which has been strengthened by heat processing. Tempered Glass when broken, shatters into small pieces without sharp edges. See Safety Glass.

Template: A pattern or jig used to machine-cut a precise hole or recess into a door or frame part.

Thermal Break:  A feature of a door or frame assembly which separates metal or glass exposed to outside temperatures, from coming into contact and transmitting heat to or from inside-exposed parts.

Threshold: Another term for sill - the horizontal part of a door assembly, fixed under the door panel and bearing on the floor.

Tinted Glass: Glass made with a green, gray, or bronze tint, so as to reduce light transmittance.

TPE:  Abbreviation for thermoplastic elastomer; a class of copolymer or a physical mix of polymers (usually a plastic and rubber) which consist of material with both thermoplastic and elastomeric properties. Generally low modulus, flexible materials that can be stretched repeatedly to at least twice their original length at room temperature with an ability to return to their approximate original length when stress is released. TPEs are used to make weather-stripping and gasketing parts.

Transom: A framed glass assembly mounted atop a door assembly. Transom are rectangular in shape or have curved or arched tops. One design of a curved top transom has the shape of a half-ellipse.

Transport Clip:  A steel piece used to temporarily fasten a prehung door assembly closed for handling and shipping, which maintains the door panels proper position in the frame.

Trimmer Stud: In a wood framed rough opening, the stud or framing member which runs vertically from teh subfloor to and supporting the structural header member, into which a door frame is fastened.

Triple-Glazed: An insulated glass assembly made of three thicknesses of glass, with air spaces between the outer and inner thickness.

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U-Value: A number which describes in specific terms, the ability of a material or assembly to transmit heat from outside to inside surfaces. Assemblies with lower U-values transmit less heat than those with higher values. See R-Value. A U-Value is the inverse of an R-Value.

Urethane: A plastic material made by reacting two polymers. A urethane part will burn, but it will not melt.

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Veneer: A thin film or facing, adhesively bonded to a core or substrate, which makes up the exposed and decorative face of an assembly.

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Warp: A permanent curvature or deviation from straightness, which can be induced in a part or assembly by a load or force, or by exposure to heat or moisture.

Water Penetration: The unwanted passage of water through a door system.

Wired Glass: Glass made for use in fire doors, which has embedded wires which bind the glass, and permit the glass to remain monolithic when exposed to fire.

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Yellow Zinc Dichhromate: A brass looking plating to steel parts, which is highly corrosion-resistant.

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Diagram of a Door

For further information or to request a quote, contact us..

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Selecting Your Door

There are many reasons for installing a new door or entryway system.  Whether you are planning on selling your  home, or plan to continue residing in it, a new door can increase your home's value by adding to it's curb appeal and by functioning in a more efficient manner to lower utility costs.

Newer doors often fit better and insulate better than older doors, and while people used to choose wood doors based on their visual appeal, today's doors offer the same beauty as well as being more efficient energy wise.

Key features to consider are energy efficiency, security, and visual appeal.  All Iossi Doors are tested and researched to provide the best quality in each category, and we are experienced in the styles of home that each product is well suited to.

See our Getting Started Guide for additional tips.

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Finishing Your Door

You may decide to finish your door yourself or you may decide years from now to change the finish on one of our installed doors. PLEASE see the care and maintenance section for information on stripping to refinish.

In either case, we offer One-Day Stain kits, as well as reliable recommendations for paint products.

Following are some of the tips we recommend:

  • Work only when the temperatures are between 50° and 90° F and with relative humidity below 80%. Do not finish in direct sunlight.

Smooth Star Doors:

  • To paint your doors, clean first with a mild detergent and water or use a TSP (tri-sodium phosphate) solution.
  • Rinse well and allow to drry completely.
  • Mask off hardware, glass and remove weather-stripping before painting
  • Use high-quality acrylic latex house paint, following manufacturer's directions for application.
  • Use exterior grade finishes for outside surfaces.
  • Paint edges and exposed ends for a completely finished look.

Painting Doorlite Frames:

  • Remove any excess glass glazing sealant by first spraying with a window cleaner or water.
  • Use a single edge razor blade to score the glazing along the edge of the frame.
  • Holding the razor at a 45 degree angle, scrape glazing from glass.
  • Wipe remaining residue off with window cleaner or mineral spirits.
  • Clean frame with a mild detergent and water or use a TSP (tri-sodium phosphate) solution.
  • Rinse and allow to dry completely.
  • Mask off glass.
  • Prime door lite frames with an alkyd-or acrylic based primer.
  • Allow primer to dry before applying finish paint coats.
  • Use high-quality acrylic latex house paint, following manufacturer's application instructions.
  • Use exterior grade finishes for outsie surfaces.

Classic-Craft and Fiber Classic Doors:

To finish Doorlite Frames and Panel Inserts:

  • Remove any excess glazing sealant by first spraying with a window cleaner or water.
  • Use a single edge razor blade to score the glazing along the edge of the frame.
  • Holding the razor blade at a 45 degree angle, scrape glazing from glass.
  • Wipe remaining residue off with window cleaner or mineral spirits.
  • Mask off glass.
  • Clean door with a mild detergent and water or a TSP (tri-sodium phosphate) solution.
  • Rinse well and let completely dry.
  • Prime with an alkyd- or acrylic based primer.
  • Allow primer to dry completely.
  • Paint with acrylic latex paint that is compatible with the primer, following manufacturer's application instructions.
  • Use exterior grade finishes for outside surfaces.
  • Paint edges and exposed ends of the door for a complete finished look.

To Stain Doors:

  • Clean first with a clean cloth and mineral spirits, or wash door with a mild detergent and water, or TSP (tri-sodium phosphate) solution.
  • Rinse well.
  • Allow to completely air dry.
  • For stained surfaces, we only recommend the use of the stain and clear coat products that we carry; Same-Day stain Finishing Kit.
  • Apply stain with a rag.
  • Wipe off the stain to the color shade you desire.
  • Remove any excess stain from the panel grooves with teh foam brush in teh kit.
  • Allow the stain to dry for at least 6 hours before applying the topcoat.
  • See Same-Day Stain Finishing Kit instructions for complete details.

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Care and Maintenance

All Iossi Door systems and components should be inspected on an annual basis for the following conditions:

  • Fading of door finishes
  • Weather-strip seal inadequacies
  • Door bottom gasket or sill gasket wear
  • Vinyl threshold or oak riser splitting or cracking

Door Finishes

Clearcoats and Stains: All exterior finishes are affected by exposure and weathering from the sun, moisture and air pollutants. A simple application of a maintenance coat (topcoat) will renew the projection over the stained surface on Classic-Craft, and Fiber-Classic door slabs. Before top coat fails, reapply fresh topcoat. Clean first with a house hold detergent (mild) and water. Rinse and let dry. Reapply the topcoat approximately every 3 - 5 years or when gloss fades. Fading will vary.

Paint on Classic Craft or Fiber Classic Doors: For fading, cracking, splitting, etc., of Classic-Craft or Fiber-Classic doors, stripping and refinishing may be required.

Paint on Smooth-Star Doors: For cracking, splitting or deteriorating paint finishes on Smooth-Star doors, lightly sand surface of door and touch up to match overall finish.

Special Note for Outswing Door Systems: Swing-out doors must have all edges- sides, tops and bottom - finished. Inspect and maintain these edges regularly as all other surfaces.

Weather-stripping: If the weather-stripping fails to perform (i.e., snot sealing the door system properly, cracking, tearing, etc.) the weather-strip needs to be replaced. Remove the existing weather-stripping and replace.

Door Bottom and Gaskets: If the door bottom gasket fails to perform (i.e., splitting, cracking, etc.), the door bottom needs to be replaced with a new door bottom. If the sill gaskets on outswing sills fails to perform (i.e., splitting, cracking, etc.), the sill gasket needs to be replaced. Pull the existing gasket and replace the gasketing for proper functioning of the sill.

Riser for Adjustable Sills: If the riser for an adjustable sill fails to perform (i.e., splitting, cracking, etc.), the riser needs to be replaced. Remove the existing riser and replace.

Vinyl Thresholds: If the vinyl threshold fails to perform (i.e., splitting, cracking etc.), the vinyl threshold needs to be replaced. Remove the existing threshold and replace.

Corner Seal Pads: If pads are torn or missing, replace.

Sealing/Resealing Areas: If a caulk seal fails to perform (i.e., water leakage) remove existing seal and reseal areas.

Stripping to Refinish:

  • Choose a standard paint stripper. Paint or stain and topcoat can be removed with most methylene chloride based strippers such as: Savogran SuperStrip, Savogran Kutzit, or Dad's Easy Spray Paint, Stain and Varnish Remover.
  • Follow the paint stripper manufacturer's directions and cautions.
  • Apply the stripper, working on small areas at a time. (TIP: for a fiberglass door, apply the stripper to the upper glass frame first, and the raised panels second before moving on to the rest of the door.
  • Remove the stripper within 2-3 minutes. If your fiberglass door/stainable polyurethane product has a factory-applied primer, it might be removed with long exposure to paint strippers. (TIP: Use a nylon bristle brush for easier removal of paint and stain from the wood-grain texture. For fiberglass doors, grade 000 steel wool can also be used.
  • Wash off the remaining stripper.
  • Clean with mild soap and water to completely remove any stripper residue.
  • Rinse well and wipe dry.
  • Make sure the product is completely clean and dry before refinishing.

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Our Policy

We put our customers first.


Our Thoughts

We earn our customers trust, it is part of what has kept us a successful business for so many years.  We know the area and we offer products and services that have proven to provide excellent results. 

Contact Us

4374 State Street
Bettendorf, Iowa 52722


Monday-Friday: 8-4
Other times available by appointment